Monday, October 14, 2024

Hong Kong and Macau - October 2024

In October 2024, after a long gap of about six years,(thanks mainly to Covid), we visited Unni, Ankita and the grandchildren Theia and Arye in their home at Discovery Bay, Hong Kong. 

We left Kottayam on 30th September and spent one  night with Sally and Ouseppachan, taking off from Cochin on the 1st October night, reaching Delhi early in the morning of the 2nd October. Since we had a gap of almost 24 hours in Delhi, we first thought of visiting our old friend Ramesh Mehta and his wife Shobha, but abandoned this plan because Ramesh had just had a cataract surgery and we didn't want to spread any infection to him, as both Simmy and I had a somewhat bad cold and cough. So finally, we took a cab and visited Babu and Shirley instead, at their home in Mayur Vihar across the Yamuna.

We had breakfast and lunch with them, slept for a while and returned to the airport well in time to catch the Air India flight to Hong Kong, arriving there about 8 am on the 3rd October. Unni was at the airport to receive us. We took a cab to North Plaza in Discovery Bay from where we took the bus to Crestmont Villa, Caperidge Drive where Unni and family now live.  

It is a beautiful place, with a grand view of  Discovery Bay and places like Disneyland in the distance. On our earlier visit in 2018, we had stayed at Unni's place in La Serene, but in many ways Crestmont Villa was better. The house itself was bigger,and there was a spacious patio overlooking the Bay, which made a big difference to everyone, especially to Laddoo, their friendly pet dog! 

                                                 

View of Discovery Bay from Unni's patio.
















   

On 11th October, we travelled to Macau to spend the weekend there. Unni had booked a 5-star hotel called the Grande Coloane where we were very comfortable, next to the Bay. While Unni, Ankita and the kids went to a Water Theme Park for most of the next day, Simmy and I stayed back, enjoying the sheer luxury and peace of the place. We went exploring the beach, swimming in the pool and relaxing in the room.The food too was excellent in the hotel, though we did try a Portuguese restaurant called 'Miramar' on the beach, where we did not find the food very good. The journey to Macau was done on the 55km. sea bridge connecting Hong Kong to Macau. The longest sea bridge in the world and a marvel of Chinese engineering skills. On the return journey,we took the ferry.

Wednesday, July 13, 2022

Mappilassery Tharavad, my mother's ancestral house

 It's always a pleasure to visit this ancestral home of my mother, called Mappilassery Tharavad, in Champakulam. And particularly so on Moolam Naal in the Malayalam month  of Mithunam, because that's the day the Champakulam Boat Race takes place, and this house plays an important role in this spectacular water festival.

I give below, extracts from Wikipedia, which tells the fascinating story of the Boat Race and the ceremonies that take place in the house prior to the race:

The Champakulam Moolam Boat Race is one of the oldest[1][2][3][4] vallam kali (snake boat race) (after the Aranmula Boat Race) in Kerala state of south India. The race is held on the River Pamba on Moolam day (according to the Malayalam Era M.E) of the Malayalam month Midhunam, the day of the installation of the deity at the Ambalappuzha Sree Krishna Temple.[citation needed]

The legend[edit]

It is said that the Raja of Chempakasseri, Pooradam Thirunal Devanarayanan, built a temple at Ambalappuzha as suggested by the royal astrologers, but just before the installation of the deity (Lord Krishna) he was informed that the idol was not auspicious.[citation needed]

It was important to install a suitable idol immediately. Accordingly, the priests identified another idol of Lord Krishna, kept at the Karinkulam temple in Kurichi. This idol was believed to have been given to Arjuna by Lord Krishna himself, and was therefore considered very sacred. After getting the idol from Karinkulam temple, the Raja's men set forth by boat for the return journey. While returning to Ambalappuzha, night set in, and, as instructed by the Raja, they took shelter at a Christian household, the home of Mappilassery Itty Thommen, in the village of Champakulam. Itty Thommen was a loyal subject and a confidant of the king.

Itty Thommen and his family received the men and the idol with great honour. The next day, the Raja and his entourage turned up at Mappilassery, accompanied by a huge mass of people. Pujas were offered to the deity and Itty Thommen and his men also travelled with the flotilla to Ambalapuzha where the idol was duly consecrated and installed with great fanfare. On the way, the people of Champakulam and adjoining areas, as well as the priests and laity of the Champakulam Kalloorkadu Church, honoured the Raja and the idol.

These events took place in 1545 A.D. The Raja, pleased with the love and affection shown to him by his Christian subjects, declared that henceforth, to commemorate these events, a great water carnival would be held at Champakulam every year, on Moolam day in the Malayalam month of Mithunam. Thus began the Champakulam Snake Boat Race and related functions, which continue to this day.

In 1613 A.D., sixty-three years after the idol was given shelter at Mappilassery, the old house was being demolished and a new one being built. Raja Devanarayanan's successor heard the news and immediately sent word to Itty Thommen's son, Kunhi Thommen that the area where the idol was kept, which was considered a devasthanam or sacred place, was to be specially demarcated and used only as a place of worship. Also, in keeping with Hindu practices, no menstruating women were to enter the room. A special lamp, made of rare metals, was given to the family, to be kept in this holy place, and perpetually burning, as an eternal flame. Special privileges were also conferred on the family, including the grant of lands and coconut groves to supply the oil for the lamp.

Even today, these practices continue. The lamp is kept perpetually burning. Every year priests and other delegates from the temple call at the house on Moolam day, with gifts and prasadam for the karanavar or head of the house. This ceremony is known as the Moolakazcha. It is believed that on Moolam Day, Lord Krishna resides not at the Temple, but at Mappilassery House! Reverentially, on unshod feet, the Temple delegates enter the prayer room, where along with Christian icons like the cross, and statues of Jesus and Mary, the lamp, known as the Vazhakoombu Vilakku is given a place of prominence. The temple representatives then venerate the lamp, and are treated by the family to a sumptuous feast. It is only after all these ceremonies, that the famous Champakulam Snake Boat Race commences.

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This year's functions fell on 12th July 2022 and Simmy and I were once again privileged to see the events. As usual, we  felt that we were witnesses to history being repeated.

The Temple representatives (about 50 of them) came in a motor launch, were received warmly by the current head of the family, gifts were exchanged, (including the fabled Ambalapuzha palpayasam), the visitors paid their respects to the Vazhakoombu Vilakku (perpetually lit lamp) and were served tea and snacks. The Namboodiri Thirumeni (priest) and other representatives of the Devaswom Board, as well as the karanavar of the family, gave brief speeches, and then the visitors left, signalling that the boat race could commence.


For me and Simmy, it was also an opportunity to meet several members of the family, some of whom we had never met before.

These ceremonies have been going on since 1545 AD and represent the spirit of communal harmony and amity that have characterised Kerala all these years. I hope and pray that they will continue for ever. Sometimes however, when I survey the present polarisation of communities that is going on in the country, I feel rather pessimistic. God help us all, and our country.


Some photos of the events at Mappilassery Tharavad on 12th July 2022 (Moolam Naal of Mithunam ME)


Temple representatives arrive by boat


Murukkan for the Temple representatives

 

The lamp

Another view of the lamp




Speech  by the Temple Thirumeni






Tuesday, April 19, 2022

Kurisumala Ashram

Kurisumala Ashram

Simmy and I have just returned from a brief stay at Kurisumala Ashram where we spent the latter part of Passion Week. It was a wonderful experience.

I was going to the Ashram after many many years. The last time I went there was when I took my old friend Yogi Aggarwal (who passed away in February this year) and his young son Abhay there. This must have been more than fifteen years ago, and we met the Abbot, Francis Acharya and had lunch in their refectory.  But in the old days, before I went to college, I was a frequent visitor, and our family had very close links with the monks there.

The Ashram was set up in 1957 or thereabouts, by two spiritually adventurous priests- Francis Mahieu from Belgium and Bede Griffiths from England. Their idea was to establish a centre where there would be a continuous dialogue between Christian and non-Christian (particularly Hindu) intellectuals. The duo had the blessings of the Syro-Malankara church and land (about 100 acres!) was donated by the well-known planter and philanthropist K V Thomas Pottenkulam.

It was a wild and rugged countryside, with minimal road and other facilities, but through sheer hard work and perseverance, the two pioneers and their band of devoted hermits soon established a thriving monastic community which was totally self-contained. They grew their own vegetables and cereals, started a still-flourishing dairy farm (Kurisumala milk is a well-known brand now), lived a monastic life in keeping with Indian traditions such as wearing ochre robes, not using footwear, and eating only simple vegetarian food, sitting cross-legged on the floor! The emphasis was always on prayer, manual labour, silence and a spartan life-style.


A part of the dairy plant at the Ashram

My parents were very hospitable to the monks. Quite often the founders, as well as other members of the community, spent the night in our Mavady house or in the tharawad in Teekoy, while trekking up to Kurisumala from Teekoy ( and sometimes even from Erattupetta), as the State Highway was just being built in those days. And Ammachi, my mother, took special care to serve delicious food to them, something they really appreciated! The famous architect Laurie Baker and his doctor wife Elizabeth, who had a house near the Ashram, were also well-known to us. They too visited us often, though I don't ever remember them staying with us.   




 The founders: Dom Bede Griffiths (Swamy Dayananda) (left) and Acharya Francis Mahieu (right) 


When Simmy and I reached the Ashram on 14th April, the current Abbot, Swamy Sevananda, and the Guest Master, Swamy Nirmalananda received us very warmly. Since they did not have accommodation for couples, they very kindly decided to put us up at 'The Hermitage' a hut little away from the main Ashram. This suited us very well and for three days and nights, we stayed in this little shack resembling a shepherd's hut. It had two small rectangular rooms, fitted with the bare essentials, but we were quite comfortable. The only disadvantage probably was that it had no provision for hot water.



                                                                    Outside our Hut 



  The misty scene outside our 'shepherd's hut' 



The interior of our hut




The main building of the Ashram

Most of our time at the Ashram was spent in their tiny chapel, in silence or in prayer. The Holy Week Services were of course rather long, sometimes lasting up to 5 hours. But we were quite prepared, and took everything in our stride. The liturgy in the Syro-Malankara Rite was very interesting, and the aura of mystery and mysticism was predominant throughout. I noticed too that the sacred Hindu 'AUM' was conspicuously present, along with the Cross, just above the altar. This was something that had fascinated me years ago, and I was glad that this symbol was still there.   


The austere chapel

We also met some interesting priests, nuns, as well as laymen from different parts of the country, including a priest from St.Paul's Publications in Mumbai, a nun who runs a Yoga Centre in Muvattupuzha, and our old acquaintance Fr.Jacob,  Director  of SEERI in Kottayam, an institute that specialises in the teaching and propagation of the Syriac language. There was even a young man named Mark from Manipur (but working in Cochin) who was attending the services. And Simmy was particularly pleased to meet a young girl who turned out to be her Bangalore college classmate's daughter!

We returned to Kottayam on Easter day, after lunch at my sister Laila's house in Mavady, and a brief visit to my cousin Lonappan in Teekoy .   

Altogether, it was an unusual experience.    




Wednesday, April 1, 2020

A reminder of happier times (in these days of Covid 19)

It's been a very long time since I blogged. Sheer laziness and nothing else. In the meantime the world has been caught up in the Covid 19 scare, which, even as I write this, is taking a horrifying toll on human life and efforts. Starting in China in January this year, it has ravaged almost all parts of the world and is yet another indicator that we human beings are but insignificant creatures in Nature's  scheme of things.

News around the world today is depressing and frightening. India is in complete lockdown and so are many other countries. Everything from shops and restaurants to trains, planes and buses are shut down and great social and economic tensions seem inevitable. I wonder how it will all end.   

In this gloomy weather, I thought it apt to remind myself and others of happier times. So I wrote an article about some of our college pranks and sent it to the Hindu who finally published it last Sunday (29th March 2020). Some comic relief after days and days of gloom!

Here is the article:


Campus capers: just for laughs and thrills

MARCH 29, 2020 00:34 IST
UPDATED: MARCH 28, 2020 17:46 IST

When funny pranks and youthful derring-do set a campus alive
Timid in school, my mischief buds were awakened only after joining college in Delhi. My partners in crime were Arvind, Philip and Shamsher, all pranksters nonpareil.
Our first victim was a fellow who sold fruits at exorbitant prices on the campus. We struck at midnight. With a wicked-looking hook ingeniously attached to a long pole, Shamsher lifted basket-loads of luscious fruits through the ventilator of the shop into our waiting hands and mouths. The next day, the man was found frantically examining the waste bins on the campus. But we outsmarted him by evenly spreading the banana skins, orange peels and other incriminating evidence across the residential blocks. Eventually, after a series of such raids, and much to our dismay, he sealed the ventilator.
Arvind once boasted that he would sleep all alone at night on the Ridge, a wooded, spooky area near the college. He placed a bet with us, and we deposited him around midnight near the grave of a British Captain who died in action during the 1857 War of Independence. Nonchalantly lighting up a cigarette, Arvind looked dangerously close to winning the bet, as he cheerfully slid into his sleeping bag. As usual, Shamsher saved the situation. He rushed to a nearby postgraduate hostel where he had friends, and mustered three vicious-looking characters who pretended looking for buried loot near Arvind’s sleeping place. We watched in glee from the nearby bushes, as a shaken Arvind was rudely chased away. He escaped leaving behind his spectacles and sleeping bag, and it was only several months later that we told him the truth.
Honking mad
Philip was the proud owner of an old-fashioned horn pilfered from an ancient city bus abandoned on the Ridge. He and Arvind would go around on Philip's scooter, get close to the ears of unsuspecting cyclists or tonga wallahs and scare the living daylights out of them, by squeezing the rubber bulb which would then emit an unearthly shriek. Occasionally, a water pistol replaced the horn, with much the same results.  Sometimes, the cyclist would even fall off in fright, while the two triumphantly fled the scene. I once tried replacing Arvind on the pillion seat, but was hopelessly clumsy. Our target, an old tonga wallah, reacted with lightning speed. As I squirted water onto his face, he let out an unmentionable expletive and lashed out at me with his horse whip, resulting in painful red welts all over my back and chest. For a long time after that, I declined to go with Philip on his marauding sprees.
One day, a famous cartoonist was invited to the college. The hall was full, partly because of his reputation but also because of the exquisite chocolate éclairs which would be served during tea. Shamsher and I, who came mainly for the goodies, had to stand outside and watch the proceedings. As tea was being served, we noticed that SJ, a rather well-endowed batch mate, was sitting on the window sill in front of us. He was leaning forward, teacup in hand, anxious to take in every word of the cartoonist.
Scalding hot
As he did so, his shirt went up and trousers slid down exposing a considerable portion of the cleft below. The temptation was irresistible! Shamsher winked at me; I winked back and in a trice, poured a large dose of the hot, sticky liquid from my own cup into the cleavage. SJ yelped and shot out of his seat, sloshing himself and others with tea. Livid with rage, he turned around and spotting me, ran out of the hall and chased me down the corridor. He would have beaten me to pulp had Shamsher not intervened.
Many years later, Shamsher bumped into SJ at an alumni meet and reminded him of the incident.. A senior IAS officer then, SJ mercifully bore no grudge and merely laughed it off, even as Shamsher helpfully pointed out that he was probably the only man in the world who had tasted tea from both ends!
thommen1512@gmail.com






Monday, March 18, 2019

Dreams Ahoy!

I have been writing occasionally, mostly for The Hindu, a major national daily in English. My articles of course are very light pieces, as I think I am incapable of writing anything serious!
Here is the last piece I wrote, titled 'Dreams Ahoy!'  It was published within two weeks of my writing and despite minor (though poor) editing, retained its originality. Of course they changed its title too.
Below is the article:

OPEN PAGE

Dreams and the reality

190316_Open page - dreams
190316_Open page - dreams  

Asinine as they might be, these are visions from deep within

I am a dreamer. But my dreams are totally frivolous, often with no beginning, no end and sometimes no middle either! Scenes from a ‘Theatre of the Absurd’ play by Beckett.
My adolescent dreams were highly women-centric, fantasising about voluptuous beauties. Elizabeth Taylor and Sophia Loren were hot favourites, followed by desi varieties from Bollywood. As testosterone levels declined, my dreams too changed in content and variety but not in fatuity. As a young probationer in the bank where I worked, my dreams were mostly about waylaying and assaulting an exceptionally nasty boss.
Once I entered fatherhood, filial love began to dominate my dreams. A particularly vivid dream was about a race through the Amazon forests which my school-going son and his friends had to go through. I was coach-cum-guide to one of my son’s friends. Dressed like Tarzan, I helped the youngster negotiate rapids, swim through crocodile and piranha infested waters, and fight off fierce wild animals. In the end my protege won the race, beating his nearest rival (his first cousin!) by a huge lead.
The Mayor of Manaus, dressed in his ceremonial robes, then awarded the trophy to him, while I beamed and grinned foolishly, still in my outlandish Tarzan attire, with loincloth and dagger.
Strangely enough, my son seemed to be nowhere in the picture. I also dreamt that the defeated cousin’s parents refused to speak to me for several months.

The transition

Now I am a portly, bespectacled, mild-mannered 70-year-old pensioner, I often wish I was younger, fit and virile. That probably explains some of my more recent dreams where I appear macho and aggressive. One such saw me on the streets of Karol Bagh in Delhi.
I was suddenly attacked by three thugs who demanded my wallet, which I refused to hand over. In the ensuing fight, I kicked and punched my way through, knocking one of the assailants unconscious, while the other two fled! With total sang froid I then sauntered back to my hotel, ignoring the admiring looks of the bystanders! It was then that I suddenly woke up, to discover my terrified wife cowering at the far end of our bed, trying to protect herself from the vicious punches I was raining on her face. Ever since, she makes sure she sleeps as far away as possible from me.

Patriotism, too

Old age has brought in patriotic dreams as well. A few months ago my wife and I were in Hong Kong, staying with our son.
One night I dreamt I was a freedom fighter, marching along with Gandhiji to gherao a group of Britishers who were ensconced on a small island just off the coast. As we were about to cross over to the island, a gang of raj supporters chased us and many of us had no option but to jump into the sea and swim on to the island.
However, I chose a novel method. Springing onto a tall, slender arecanut tree protruding from the sea, I used it to jump across, much like a pole-vaulter using his pole. In the process one of my sandals fell off, whereupon I very magnanimously, and in true Gandhian fashion, threw off the other sandal too, so that my footwear would come in useful to whoever found them.
Landing on the island, I ran to the double-storeyed house where the British were staying. It was then that I was discovered by some loyalists who shouted, uske tange thodo (break his legs) and proceeded to do exactly that, using a large log lying around. I then woke up, screaming in agony, to find my son and his wife rushing in from their room to find out why the old man was making such a racket.
Sigmund Freud is no longer around to analyse my asinine dreams. In his absence, maybe I should request Jhumpa Lahiri to write a sequel to herInterpreter of Maladies and call it ‘Interpreter of Dreams.’ Maybe I should write to the government asking for a freedom fighter’s pension. My meagre pension is proving to be sorely inadequate and any supplemental income would be helpful!

Sunday, December 10, 2017

Reminiscences and a bit of family history

For a long time, Wikipedia contained the following note about 'Vallikappen':

'Vallikappen' is an honorific title conferred on members of the prominent land-owning "Valiaveettil" family of Aruvithura (present-day Erattupetta) in Kerala, India, by the Rajas of Poonjar .'

Of late however, I see that this entry has been totally deleted, possibly because it does not meet their eligibility requirements. Whether it appears there or not, there's no harm in me writing whatever I know about our family and its history, as well as anecdotes that I remember about a way of life that has gone with the wind . 
 
 The Vallikappens are indeed a branch of the Valiaveettil family of Aruvithura who settled down near the western parts of that famous church in the 14th century. And, according to tradition and family legends,‘Vallikappen’ is an honorific conferred on a distant ancestor, Valiaveettil Mathai Mappillai, by the Poonjar Rajas sometime towards the late 18th century. This was because this gentleman owned a piece of land within the Poonjar domains on which stood a shrine dedicated to Valli, closely connected to Meenakshi, the kula devatha (family deity) of the Poonjar Rajas who originally came from Madurai and were basically a Tamil-speaking dynasty. Though a Christian, Mathai Mappillai treated the shrine with great deference and respect and was consequently given the name ‘Vallikappen’, one who protects Valli (Valli + ‘kapath’ meaning ‘look after/protect’ in Tamil). Ever since, the descendants of Mathai Mappillai have been using ‘Vallikappen’ as a family name.

While there are no documents/records to corroborate this family legend, no less a person than His Highness Sri Chithira Thirunal Bala Rama Varma, the last Maharaja of Travancore, has confirmed this story. His sister, Karthika Thirunal Thampuratti, the Junior Maharani of Travancore, was married to Col. Goda Varma Raja of Poonjar and the Maharaja told me that he had heard the story from a senior member of the Poonjar family many years ago. (Please refer to my attached article in the Indian Express, titled 'The last Maharaja' which contains a fleeting reference to this, as well as to my other interactions with him).  The late Kerala Varma Valia Raja of Poonjar also confirmed to me that there was indeed a shrine dedicated to Valli, though somewhat far away from Aruvithura, near Koottickal.  


(Unni, Simmy, Jatin and me at the Poonjar Palace with Kerala Varma Thampuran, the then Valia Raja of Poonjar.)
 

While Vallikappens have generally been low-profile, some of them have played   significant roles in the community life of the area. Mathai Vallikappen (not to be confused with Mathai Mappillai) bought/took on lease large swathes of land from the Poonjar Rajas in the hill tracts surrounding Aruvithura. He also had business interests across the border, in the neighbouring Tamil areas of Cumbum and Madurai. His son, (my grandfather), Joseph Vallikappen (Kochipe) was, by all accounts, a very colourful personality. I have never seen him, as he passed away in 1938, ten years before I was born. But I have heard so much about him from various sources, and of course his legacy still lives on, in the form of his descendants, his estates and the larger-than-life legends about him. Unfortunately, the great house he built at Teekoy no longer exists, having been burnt down in a fire about ten years ago.


My grandfather Joseph Vallikappen (1888-1938)

Kochipe was a man of many parts: planter, adventurer, philanthropist, traveller, and innovator. There are so many stories about him that sometimes it's difficult to distinguish fact from fiction! Apparently, at a very young age, he left his home at Aruvithura in a huff, after his father Mathai Vallikappen thrashed him soundly for failing in some examination. The boy wandered around near Teekoy Estate, a newly established British-owned Rubber Plantation, where the Englishman running the estate spotted him, befriended him (some say, because he was very impressed with his English language skills!), and offered him the post of a 'Writer' in the estate. Kochipe worked there for a few years, and picked up the many skills in estate management that were to come in handy in his later life. Meanwhile he reconciled with his father and relinquished charge at the estate, though the appendage ' Writer' was to to stick to him throughout his life! He then took charge of much of his father's properties in Teekoy, Marmala, Mavady, Mangalam, Peringulam and Edakkara, many of them originally bought or leased from the Rajas of Poonjar. Kochipe expanded the properties and by applying  modern management practices, very soon built up a flourishing plantation industry. He planted tea, coffee, rubber, pepper, cardamom and coconuts and gradually became one of the leading planters of his time, even attracting the attention of the famous K.C.Mammen Mappillai, who visited him at Teekoy to persuade him to invest more into rubber plantations. 

It must be remembered that Kochipe lived through a period which marked the high point of British imperialism. He therefore, was a product of his age and was an unabashed Anglophile, living the life of an English squire of old. He had an army of servants, lived in an enormous house, kept horses (bought from Sree Moolam Thirunal Rama Varma, the Maharaja of Travancore), and had his regular Scotch and soda in the evenings. (There was even a room in the house called the 'soda room' which contained a huge contraption to make the fizzy beverage. The 'soda maker' was a young boy from Kottayam who had somehow wandered into Kochipe's service. Many years later, when I was posted in Kottayam in the SBI, I met this 'boy', who by then was an elderly gentleman, who had done well for himself and was a pillar of society in the town! Happily, he seemed to have pleasant memories about grandfather and other members of the family. I was particularly touched when he narrated an incident when, at his wedding, my father handed him a hundred rupee note as a wedding gift-- a huge amount in those days!) 

Kochipe was also one of the few people in Meenachil Taluk who owned a motor-car, and loved holidaying abroad, visiting Europe several times, once with his wife. He even wrote travelogues in the Nazrani Deepika in 1925 and 1929, the latter one in his wife's name, describing his adventures abroad.    

Unfortunately, this remarkable man died very young, in 1939, at the age of 50 and was buried in Teekoy church.  


Article in the Nazrani Deepika of 1929

Kochipe married twice and had two children from his first wife. The eldest, Mathew (Senior), was a planter-cum-Bank Officer working for a Bank in Alleppey. A hard working and adventurous man, he was fording the Meenachil river on his way to the family estate in Marmala when he was swept away in a flash flood, and his body found only several days later downstream in Kottayam. It was indeed a tragic end and Kochipe and the rest of the family were shattered.

I have heard it said that the magnanimous Kochipe took extra pains over his widowed daughter in law, Theyamma from the Payyanad (Mappilassery) family of Champakulam and even offered to get her remarried. However, she refused to do so. A gracious dowager of amazing grit and determination, she (our Peramma), took great pains in looking after her estate in Marmala as well as bringing up her two daughters, Lillykutty and Thankamma. Later on, though an heiress in her own right, Lillykutty gave up everything, decided to become a nun and joined the Medical Mission Sisters. She took on the name of Virginia and served the Lord as well her fellow-humans all over the country as well as in Africa and Brazil. She was a loving and caring elder sister to all of us and I still remember her handing out homoeopathic pills to me whenever I fell ill or pretended to be ill. I loved the sugary pills! She died at the age of 63 on 24th July 1995 at Kottayam. I was at that time the Branch Manager of the SBI at Thirunakkara, Kottayam and attended her funeral. Losing her was very sad.

Peramma’s second daughter, Thankamma married Alexander (Sandappan) of the Kanjooparambil family, and they lived in Teekoy. They had five children.  

Interestingly, my mother Kuttiamma and Peramma’s two daughters were first cousins (from her paternal side), while they were also my first cousins, through my paternal side. A very peculiar relationship indeed, which made this family all the more dear to me and my siblings! My mother and Peramma were both from the Payyanad family, a branch of the famous Mappilassery family of Champakulam. (For more details about this family, and the interesting events that take place at their tharavad on Moolam day of Mithunam every year,  see my blog dated 13th July 2022) 

Kochipe's second child from his first marriage was Achamma, who was married to an excise officer from the Kalayathinal family near Bharananganam.             

After the death of his first wife, Kochipe married again, and his wife was Aley, the daughter of the refined and scholarly Chunkapura Mathai Mapillai. She was a handsome lady, pious, gentle, hospitable and very generous to all who came to her. There are many people in and around Teekoy whose children she sent to school, college and other educational institutions and who did well for themselves. I have met many such people, who remain eternally grateful to this gracious lady.

Valliammachi, our gracious grandmother

I remember our grandmother very well, bustling about the large house and taking care of all its inhabitants. For several years after the death of her husband Kochipe, her house in Teekoy functioned like a  joint-family set-up. It was only some years later that her sons moved to their respective areas in the extensive  family properties. Thus, my father moved to Mavady, his elder brother Varkey to Marmala, younger brother Johnson to Mangalam, while Tom remained in Teekoy. Though the brothers had shifted, they and their families often came to Teekoy and spent time there and many of us cousins have very pleasant memories of the house, which unfortunately does not exist now. Kochipe's daughters and their children too came to Teekoy during the holidays and our grandmother had her hands full, catering to the requirements of her large, hungry clan.

Kochipe and Aley had twelve children, of whom two died very young. Of the remaining, three were daughters, all of whom got married while still quite young. Mary was the eldest, who, after her graduation, taught for some time and then got married to Advocate Cherian Manjooran. The Manjoorans were a well-known set of freedom fighters, intellectuals and lawyers who, as the reputed journalist K C Chummar once told me, 'have played a very prominent role in the history of the freedom movement in Cochin State.'   The two other daughters, Alice and Baby, were both married to grooms from nearby Kanjirapally, the former to Nanichan of the Kallarackal family and the latter to Dr.K C Chacko, a dentist hailing from the Kadamapuzha family.   
         
Among the surviving sons, Varkey was the eldest. He was a pioneer in cinematography and even made a short film on Sabarimala Sree Ayyappan . It was mainly through his efforts that the family-owned Sunny Theatre in Teekoy was set up. He was also a multi-linguist, mastering languages like French, German, Italian and Urdu. His wife was Rosamma of the Anthrapper family of Cherthala. This family too, has an interesting history, as they were supposedly the descendants of a swash-buckling 'Andrew Pereira', from Portugal, who accompanied Vasco da Gama on his historic journey to India. Andrew Pereira married a local lady and the family gradually came to be known as 'Anthrapper'!  


Varkey Vallikappen's British Indian Empire Passport of 1934


His younger brother Mathew Vallikappen (my father), established the Mavady Tea Estate and Factory, which was one of the first purely Indian-owned private tea factories in Kerala. In its heydays, Mavady Tea was a well-known brand in central Travancore. The gracious mansion that he built on the estate is today the internationally known tourist destination, known as Vanilla County, assiduously promoted by his youngest son, Baby Vallikappen. Mathew Vallikappen, along with his cousin C.T.Mathew Chunkapura, was also the Founder Director of the Commercial Service Bank. 
Another brother, Tom Vallikappen set up a tile factory near Ettumanoor and was also the franchisee of the Burma-Shell Company and the owner of the sole petrol pump in Erattupetta. He married Lillykutty, from the famous Parayil Tharakan family of Ezhupunna.
Tom’s younger brother Johnson Vallikappen was a prominent member of the Swatantra Party in Kerala, associated with leading lights of the party such as Maharani Gayatri Devi of Jaipur, who even came to the Vallikappen home in Teekoy during one of her election visits to the state. An avid photographer and lover of books, Johnson helped in setting up the People’s Library in Teekoy, as well as the Vallikappen Home Library. Johnson's wife was Thankamma, of the Vattakavil family of Karimannoor.

The youngest among the brothers was Sunny, who though mentally and physically disabled, was as sunny as his name suggested. He was a genial soul, forever smiling and laughing and very often talking to his imaginary girl-friend called 'Manimala Thankamma' . His greatest pleasures were diving and swimming in the fast-flowing waters of the Teekoy river just below the house, and watching movies in the family-owned cinema theatre named after him! A sweet man indeed.   

Life in the Teekoy tharavad was quite unique. It was a rambling old house, with many rooms and a single upstairs unit made of wood, which functioned as a sort of library for the household, and built in the  traditional Kerala style, with a steep staircase that was difficult for elderly people to negotiate. From this room, one could access the attic, which covered practically the whole house. The main house itself had quaintly named rooms, like 'Cement Room', 'Stone Room' (Kallu Muri), 'Dark Room' (Iruttu Muri), 'Prasava Muri', (Delivery Room-where expecting ladies of the household stayed) 'Ayudha Muri,' and of course, the Prayer Room or Prarthana Muri. The Iruttu Muri and the Prasava Muri were adjacent, and once, when I showed my English friend David Gosling around, he winked knowingly while in the Iruttu Muri and remarked,  'Aha, so this is where it all started!'    

There was an enormous, baronial-style dining room, with two dining tables, one for the elders, and a smaller one for us children. And in an alcove near this, was a large four-poster bed on which Valliammachi would often be found reclining, mostly with a rosary in her hands, but keeping a wary eye for prowling grandchildren attempting to raid the enormous 'aripetti' in which she kept delicious goodies like buns, tapioca chips, oulose undas, etc.  My cousin Avirachan was the main marauder and would often get spanked by his father for attempted or consummated robbery!

There were two kitchens; one was very large and contained a 'borma', or oven for baking bread, which resembled an enormous igloo, which had somehow found its way into an oriental kitchen instead of the tundras! In keeping with his Anglophile ways, Kochipe, our grandfather was very particular that bread and butter was always on the table! The smaller kitchen had two store-rooms attached to it.

Another unusual feature of this house was the 'Tutor's Room' which served as the residential quarters of the private tutors as well as a classroom for youngsters. As far as I remember, there were two private tutors, of whom, the main tutor was Narayana Pilla Saar. He was a dignified, refined, and highly respected Nair gentleman and I remember him being specially invited and honoured at the weddings of my two elder brothers.  

The area around the house was interesting too. It had the huge stables meant for grandfather's horses, (the horses had long since disappeared!), the Chikkalam or yard, ramps for the repair of various types of vehicles, (I distinctly remember several cars, a jeep and even a lorry among the vehicles), and an enormous outhouse, along the sides of which were steps leading to the river flowing below the house.   

While there were two bathing rooms within the house, the lavatories, as with most Kerala houses in those days, were situated somewhat far away, beyond a huge rock which vaguely resembled an elephant, and on which we children would often play. The toilets were very primitive, with long, curved, narrow chutes under them, below which were stationed a couple of hungry pigs, snorting and grunting and waiting anxiously for their daily nourishment. Altogether, an embarrassing, but highly eco-friendly way of disposing off human waste, and probably one of the main reasons why many in the family refused to eat pork! 

There were of  course, no taps or running water in the house and servants used to lug huge quantities of water from the well or the river to replenish the bath rooms, lavatories, etc. Electricity and telephones too were non-existent. The only telephone was in the post office which fortunately was situated just beyond the outer gate, and for all practical purposes served as an adjunct of the house, as the building itself belonged to the family and was leased out to the Postal Department. Sometimes, we children even used to play hide-and-seek in the Post Office, with the elderly Post Master (whose face I still remember very clearly), watching us indulgently, but making sure we didn't mess up the place!   

The house itself was on an elevated piece of land, below which lay the village of Teekoy which consisted of a few shops, a bus shed, 
an ayurvedic dispensary run by Pappi vaidyan, the cinema theatre, a library and of course, the toddy shop, which is an indispensable part of every Kerala village! Most of the shops on one side of the main street were owned by our family, while the shops on the other side were mostly owned by the Chunkapura family of our grandmother. These shops were all rented out to various individuals, who used to pay a small monthly rent.

The servants and retainers of those days were all trusted, friendly and loyal folks who were treated as part of the family. Many of them had served under grandfather, and continued to be with us for many many years. Among them I particularly remember Uthuppan chettan, and Vellayan, a Tamilian who used to respectfully refer to grandfather as 'Ayya'. Uthuppan chettan was grandfather's bullock-cart driver. He was an elderly man, perennially bare-chested, and always with a large scapula around his neck. Like many of grandfather's aides, he too hailed from the small Knanaya Christian community of Kottayam.

My uncle Varkey Vallikappen has told me that till our grandfather's days, annual 'kappam' (tribute) used to be paid to the Poonjar Rajas. This was in the form of products like bananas, coconuts, tapioca, pepper, cardamom, jackfruit, etc. Two or three bullock carts, groaning under the weight of these items, would trundle along to the Poonjar Palace, with Uthuppan chettan as the lead driver. It would take the greater part of the day to reach Poonjar, unload the goods, and return to Teekoy. Today it takes less than 20 minutes to reach Poonjar!    

For us children, the Teekoy tharavad was a heavenly place. There was always good and plentiful food on the table, affectionate uncles and aunts and of course our loving grandmother, cricket, hide-and-seek and best of all, swimming in the river below. Our cricket gear was very primitive, with 'madals' of coconut trees serving as bats, soft tennis balls, and three crude pieces of wood as the stumps. I was among the more studious of the youngsters and often found myself in the library upstairs, which contained a fairly respectable collection of books, mostly in English. Most of these books belonged to my uncle Johnson, while the older books of my grandfather often had a rubber seal on them with the inscription ' Ashwasya shreshtatham, parvatsya aunyatham' ( അശ്വസ്യ സ്രേഷ്ടതം : പർവത്സ്യ ഔന്യത്തം) in Malayalam. I was quite intrigued by these words and many years later, a very learned priest, Rev. Fr. Jacob Kattackal who was a Sanskrit scholar, told me that they meant ' The nobility of the horse; the loftiness of the mountains'. Probably something which grandfather had adopted as his motto, as they were found on almost all his books. A very apt motto indeed for a man of the mountains, who also loved horses!  

Another pastime of those days was watching movies in 'Sunny Theatre', The balcony was practically reserved for the family and of course we did not have to buy tickets. The movies were mostly old black-and-white Tamil and Malayalam films, though I do remember watching the technicolour 'Chemmeen' there too. Uncle Sunny (Sunnyappappan to us children) would often watch all three shows of the same movie! He watched them practically lying down, as he had a special sofa-cum-bed type of furniture, on which he would recline regally, like some latter-day Caesar witnessing the gladiatoral games at the Colosseum!    
  
The new-gen Vallikappens have today diversified into various streams such as Journalism, Hoteliering, Banking, the Armed Forces, Tourism, Advertising, Mining, and Information Technology. Subhash Vallikappen was probably one of the youngest General Managers in the famous Oberoi Group of Hotels, and was also the Head Boy of Lawrence School in Lovedale during his school days. Many Vallikappens were sportsmen too, the most outstanding being Jose Vallikappen, Charly Vallikappen and Paul Vallikappen. Jose Vallikappen in particular excelled in athletics, both during his school days in St.Joseph’s Boys’ School in Bangalore as well as in St.Stephen’s College in Delhi, where he was the college as well as university athletics captain. He subsequently joined the prestigious Armoured Corps of the Indian Army and is one of the few people from this part of the country who has had actual battle experience. As a young Lieutenant he was in the thick of battle in the Sialkot sector during the Indo-Pak war of 1965. His jeep was blown up by an anti-tank mine and he was injured. With great difficulty he managed to crawl back to the Indian lines, carrying on his back a seriously injured jawan, whose leg had been completely blown off! After quitting the army as a Lt. Colonel, Jose joined the Malayala Manorama and was a columnist for The Week for more than 15 years. His regular feature ‘The Nonsense File’ was very popular and a hot favourite among readers.

'The Invincible Four'- An advertisement brought out by a prominent sports goods firm in Bangalore,featuring among others, Jose Vallikappen.

And now we have the makings of a priest too in the family. Mathaious Vallikappen, the youngest son of Kunjumon (Tom Vallikappen's son) is in the Dominican seminary in Goa, studying to be a priest. The first priest in the family for generations, although we have had two nuns. May God bless him and the rest of the clan as well!